Aerial view looking back on the very tip of Cape York. If you do go for the walk to the tip, it is worth taking your fishing rod and casting a few lures from the tip. Many quality fish have been landed from this spot.

We wanted to find some of the hottest inshore spots to fish in Cape York and figured the best person to ask would be someone who has lived in and fished the region and knows the place inside out. Cape Yorker approached Anthony and asked him to name the top three places that he would recommend to give the visiting angler the best inshore options on their stay in Cape York. We reckon this is sure to get the casting arm twitching in anticipation.

Cape York really is one of the ideal spots to visit for the travelling angler. With numerous options for the drive-in or fly-in tourist, and a number of quality fishing guides or self hire boats plus a generous amount of varied accommodation options the only limitation is knowing exactly where and when to go and just how long you have to spend there.
The whole region has so much to offer the fisherperson both in the variety of species to target and the tackle required that you could fill this whole magazine with info so when you have to narrow it down to just three locations, it makes the job a little harder.

Steve Blackmore from Gladiator Tackle was pretty happy with this little trevally caught while fishing the Punsand Bay area on a recent tackle-testing trip.

Firstly, the time of year that you visit Cape York will play a part in what you can expect to catch. Most tourists’ visit between the ‘dry’ season, which generally runs from the Easter break through to September and October, so this article will focus on that time of year. When it comes to timing your fishing for the inshore areas, the build up to the full and new moon are your best options and if I had to narrow it down even further I would say that your prime times are 3 to 4 days prior to either the full or new moon. In my experience, the rising tide has always fished better so it is presumed that these are the best tides for the locations covered in this article.

Weipa

Without a doubt, the most publicised location to fish in Cape York is Weipa and it is any wonder. Weipa really has it all with many options for the fly-in tourist and also the ones who choose to make the drive.
You can hire boats from Weipa or book a trip out with one of the many guides who have made Weipa their home. The other option is to bring your own boat (car topper or trailer) and start exploring the area yourself. If you are only targeting the inshore areas, then a boat of at least 4 metres in length is recommended.
Heading away from the main ramp at Evans Landing, and out the Embley River, the first thing you will notice is the channel markers. These can keep you occupied for many days alone as they hold some quality fish. Fish in tight to the structure with chrome lures and hang on. I have seen some monumental bust ups from these markers and there is a resident grouper there with at least $500.00 worth of lures and terminal tackle attached to it.
Moving from the leads, pointing the boat to the port direction will find you heading towards well-known locations such as Westminster, Red Cliffs, Pera Heads and Thud Point - all within an hour and a half or so from Weipa in ideal conditions.
Westminster is one of the closer spots and is basically a group of rocks that jut out from the beach. Take care here as many boaties have done considerable damage to their hulls and props when going through on the wrong tide. This is an area best approached towards the top of a rising tide for the first few times until you start to get to know the place. The rocks also go a fair way out from the beach so pay attention when heading further down the coast. Spin gear is the better way to fish here with a species list including barramundi, queenfish, trevally (numerous species), mackerel, giant herring and blue salmon. Chrome slices, poppers and both soft plastics and hard bodied lures will work. There is another area close to Westminster called Rainforest. This is also worth a look and conditions are similar to those described above.
Further down the coast is Red Cliffs. This is about an hour from the ramp and is easily spotted - just look for the red cliffs on the coast.
The northern end has a bay coming off a rocky headland/spit and this is well worth a look on the rising tide for barramundi, blue salmon and threadfin salmon. Further along, you can drift and cast towards the rocks for barramundi and queenfish to name a few. Keep an eye out wide too as there is a good chance you will start to spot birds working the surface with schools of longtail tuna and mackerel balling the bait up. I have also encountered large schools of golden trevally surface feeding in this area so you just never know what is going to turn up.
A short run further down the coast will bring you to Thud Point. This is a well-known spot for tuna and mackerel out wider, while the rocks in closer hold some quality giant trevally. For those who are keen on flyfishing, there are also some very large milkfish that move through the area. These are best found earlier in the day and on a rising tide. A short way offshore will also take you to some very good jigging grounds where fish like golden snapper will give you a real good run for your money.
If you do travel down to Thud Point, keep an eye on the weather as it can be a nasty trip home with the wind and chop making for a rough ride home.

Jewfish can be a common catch around Seisia if you hit the right spots on the right tide. Best options are on the very top, or bottom of the tide when there is little movement.

Seisia

The next hot-spot for Cape York is an area that is not as publicised but is well worth the visit. Seisia is towards the tip of Cape York and offers the travelling angler a great place to call home while you explore the inshore and offshore fishing. Being based on the western side of Cape York (like Weipa) you are often sheltered from the south-easterly trade winds so fishing is a little more enjoyable. If you have towed your boat up with you, then chances are that you will be launching at the main ramp besides the Seisia jetty. Hire boats are also available at Seisia. While on the subject of the jetty at Seisia, this is one spot you don’t want to overlook as there are sometimes huge schools of baitfish sheltering around the jetty and a large variety of good quality fish have been hooked right from the jetty. A local fella actually speared a billfish a number of years ago from this area so you just never know what is going to turn up.
Out from Seisia, there are probably more open water options available to the angler than Weipa. There are a number of islands close by and the tip of Cape York is less than an hours run north. This region is definitely more of a paradise for the blue water angler and having spent many days out with local fishing guide ‘Bat’, I can honestly say that there is an impressive variety of fish to target including Spanish mackerel, queenfish, giant trevally and then you have the bottom dwellers like golden snapper, saddeltail seaperch (nannygai) and coral trout, just to name a few.
On the way from the jetty to the tip, there are also a few smaller creeks that are well worth a look, particularly at the mouth on the rising tide.
Heading south from the jetty will find you heading towards the Jardine River. The area around the mouth of this system also fishes well with the species list including regulars such as barramundi, queenfish, trevally and some big jewies on the right tides. This is generally towards the top of the tide on the rising moon. For the jewies, try to pick the slack in the tide so that you are fishing the very top or bottom of the tide.
It is important to remember that a lot of the water you will be fishing is open water so you really need to pay attention to the weather, as things can get ugly pretty quickly.

Visiting angler, Paul Gomes was pretty happy with this average threadfin salmon caught on lure at the mouth of this estuary system in Weipa.

Pennefather

The third hot spot is not as well known and tends to be kept quiet by those in the know. It involves about an hour and a half drive north of Weipa on the road to Mapoon. The inshore fishing here can be absolutely sensational if you pick your timing right. Following the Mapoon road, take the left hand turn (just under an hour from Weipa) into Pennefather. The last section of the track is all sand so a 4wd is essential, but well worth the effort. You can hire these from Weipa. The track will lead you to the mouth of the Pennefather River where there are camping facilities.
While the mouth can fish very well, I tend to focus my efforts south of the mouth by either walking and sight casting or simply driving along the beach (on the right tide) and spotting fish from my landcruiser. The best time to do this is on the rising tide as the predatory fish will be moving in to chase the bait along the shoreline. You will find a very wide variety of fish along the coastline here including the regulars such as queenfish, trevally, blue salmon, threadfin salmon and barramundi, however there are sections of rock/reef within casting distance from the shore and I have regularly caught coral trout here on fly from the beach.
Tarpon, giant herring and snub-nosed dart are also found along this section of coastline, again, on the rising tide.
This spot would have to be one of my favourite spots to fish and the sight-fishing is definitely a highlight.
You will also notice semi-permanent camps set up along the dunes. These are private camps so please make sure that you keep away from them and only use the camping area at the mouth.
If you do time your trip right, you may also have the opportunity to see the turtles nesting along the beach at night. The local ranger (at the campgrounds) is the best person to see about that sort of thing.
When it comes to planning a trip to Pennefather, it fishes better on the lead-up to the full moon (3-4 days prior) and the rising tide is my preference. Take a variety of lures (soft plastics, hard bodied, poppers, chrome slices) as they will all have a place at Pennefather. For the fly angler, it is pretty hard to beat a place such as Pennefather. Typical clousers, baitfish profiles and crab patterns will see you frequently hooked up.
Keep in mind that the camping facilities are pretty basic so be prepared and bring your own water and supplies so you can enjoy your time there.

With these three ‘hot-spots’ on your inshore Cape York fishing agenda, you are sure to be in for a trip to remember and I am sure that there will be many drag washers being put to the test, along with fully loaded rods and busted up lures. Just don’t tell anyone else about these locations so that you can come back next year and do it all over again!

Regardless of where you fish in Cape York, always be aware that you are in crocodile country and keep a close eye on the water at all times and try to avoid scenarios (like cleaning fish at the waters edge) that may possibly put you in danger. It is the crocodile you don’t see that is the one you have to worry about.

Longtail tuna are a favourite among the sports fisher and these are common out from Weipa from May through to August each year.

Operating hours are
Monday - Friday 9-7
Thursday 9-9
Saturday - 9-4
Sunday - closed

They are located in the Nanum shopping centre opposite the Bakery.

They can be contacted by email

heritagehairandbeauty@gmail.com

or by phone: 07 40699579

The author crosses Canal Creek in his Cape York rig.

The key word when describing Cape York is “diversity”. There are many different natural environments - from the rainforests to the heathlands, from the open eucalypt forests to the mangrove forests, from the beaches to the swamps. Each of these environments has its own special population of animals, reptiles, birds and insects, many of which, may only be found in that special place. The key to enjoying this diversity is to adopt a slow measured pace, allowing plenty of time to pause and enjoy the surroundings, to “smell the flowers”, to take a million images. (I guess that’s a big plus of the digital age - you can take hundreds of images without having to worry about the cost of film and processing, as in the pre-digital era.)

Too many Cape York visitors make the same mistake. You cannot explore Cape York in a fortnight. If you are only going to charge up to the top, then back again so you can tell everyone you’ve “done the tip”, why bother? You would need a month to even scratch the surface. If your time is limited, I suggest you concentrate on just one area, returning later to explore further. In this way you will give Cape York the respect it deserves.

Cape York roads are not made for speed! If you travel too quickly, you not only risk damaging your pride and joy - you risk damaging your most important possession - your family. I have seen deaths, serious injuries and much mangled metal on my many trips to the Cape, almost all caused by inexperience and/or speed. The worst aspect is that it is often an innocent party who suffers when you display poor judgement. Imagine this - you are driving steadily along enjoying the ambience, when you are suddenly confronted by an out-of-control 4WD, with trailer attached, coming at you sideways! It happens far too often. Last trip, my friend and I put in three to four hours waiting for ambulance, police and ultimately a rescue chopper, while we administered first aid and reassurance to the two occupants of a rolled 4WD, one of whom obviously had serious injuries. The driver was young and unlicensed, once again speed and inexperience on gravel roads…

Preparations

Anyway, let’s talk of more pleasant matters, but before I introduce you to some of my favourite parts of Cape York, we need to prepare. Obviously your vehicle needs to be in good reliable order and recently serviced. Tyres should have plenty of tread, shock absorbers work effectively and fan belts and hoses in good condition. If the battery is questionable, or has some age about it, it’s probably best to replace it. These days the track is not as bad as it used to be, and I would not worry about carrying a multitude of spare parts. Far better to make sure it doesn’t need any before you leave. A very basic kit should suffice. Items like spare fuel filters (you never know how clean the fuel tanks are in these isolated fuel stops), spare fan belts and a couple of spare tyres may not go astray. Remember, a major breakdown is going to be very expensive - the closest RACQ tow service will be Weipa. In the event of a breakdown, communication will be the first challenge. Forget your mobile phone, but you would be well-advised to consider hiring a satellite phone. A few hundred dollars spent here might be good insurance. I also now carry the latest personal epirb fitted with a GPS, as another safety factor should I find myself in dire straits. I hope it never gets used.

Crossing the Jardine on the Injinoo Ferry. The ferry ticket is also your permit to camp on Injinoo land.

Any visitor to the Cape will need to carry some camping gear. These days, there is more accommodation available en route, but you will still need to carry some equipment. The next challenge is fitting it all in. A solitary traveller may get away with a tray back 4WD and canopy, however most travellers are not alone, so the common alternatives are roof racks and/or trailers. Camping trailers are very popular, and as long as they are genuine off-roaders, you should be fine. For me, roof racks are not an option due to the incessant corrugations that will be encountered. My trailer is purpose designed, equipped with shocks and coil springs, hot-dipped and built like the proverbial brick outhouse! The only problem I have encountered involved the rear tyre carrier (twice!) so now I carry the 2nd spare inside the trailer. I should point out that my trailer is not a camper, merely a vehicle for carrying all my camping gear.

Of course, you should have a copy of the Hema Cape York map, the latest version of Ron Moon’s book and don’t forget your library of “Cape Yorker” magazines! Part of the joy of exploring an area like Cape York is sharing your experiences with friends and family (I guess that’s what I’m doing right now!) so, if possible try to travel with compatible people. A couple of families with children make a great travelling party. The adults can discuss the sights and share the high points, while the kids always amuse themselves as they engage fully in the camping experience. Evenings are filled with stories, impromptu campfire concerts and, best of all, no TV!! My wife whiles away the hours working sudoku puzzles in quiet times…

Speed and inexperience contributed to this accident. One person seriously injured…

Lastly, make sure you are “au fait” with the current alcohol management plans for the different Cape York areas you will be traversing, and make sure you abide by them.

The Telegraph Track

For me, the Telegraph Track is about the beauty of the many pristine streams that it crosses. For many, the focus is on the difficulty of the various creek crossings - the “adventure” aspect. I guess it’s an age thing, and I’m over that, but I still love the telegraph track. I enjoy pausing at each creek and exploring either side of the crossing with camera in hand, and a range of lenses in the shoulder bag. You will see strange plants, such as the pitcher plant, an insect eating plant. At certain times of the year the toothbrush grevilleas will provide a riot of colour. Watch where you walk very carefully. A bad snakebite in this situation would be fatal, so due care must be taken at all times.

If you’re driving a $50 000 vehicle you will need to consider whether you really need to risk it unnecessarily by driving down Gunshot Creek or fording the Jardine River. Now I have done both, but not these days! Each creek crossing has its own character and inherent risks and should be carefully inspected on foot rather than just charging in. Some creeks, like Nolan’s Brook, can be quite deep so you need to check them out to find the best path through, as this is definitely not the place to “hydraulic” your diesel by causing it to ingest a gutful of water. Many of the more risky sections of the Telegraph Track can be bypassed these days, which allows you to enjoy the “adventure” without destroying your primary means of transport. When you reach the top, if you’ve had enough, you can always put your rig on the coastal boat and head back to Cairns by sea. There are those that do.

The Water Falls

The author powers up out of one of the creeks near the bottom of the Telegraph Track, lifting a wheel in the process.

Fruit Bat Falls and Twin Falls are two of the major attractions of the Cape and lie within the Jardine River National Park. Camping is available for the usual fee at Twin Falls and it is a very popular spot, and deservedly so. They are also ideal spots to take a cooling dip, but please remember, no soap! Let’s keep these streams as pristine as they are.

Somerset

Everyone wants to reach the Tip, but personally, I prefer to visit Somerset. This was once the hub of the Jardine family’s pastoral holdings and the place has an aura for me because of its past history - much of it violent. Little remains of the homestead, but down below, near a delightful little beach, lie the final resting places of Frank and Sana Jardine. It’s a tangible reminder of our recent history, and I always like to visit when I’m in the area. A track south follows the coast, skirting secluded beaches, which offer great beach combing, before eventually rejoining the main road back to Bamaga.

Vrilya Point

On the western side of Cape York Peninsula, Vrilya Point is accessed from the Northern Bypass Road and the turn off is 28 km south of the Jardine Ferry Crossing. This area is best accessed on your return from the north as you require a ticket for the Jardine Ferry, which is also your camping permit to access Injinoo land, and that includes Vrilya Point.

It’s a beautiful area with plenty of beachcombing to the north to explore. You can also access a creek system for fishing and camping by driving the ten kilometres of beach. An old rusted, wreck of a light boat lies towards the northern end of this beach.

If you just want to kick back and enjoy a few quiet days of relaxation, this is your spot. The track from the bypass road is generally OK, but there is a log bridge over Crystal Creek, about 4 km from the bypass track, which should be checked before crossing. Cross at your own risk!

Bamaga

This is the service centre for the top of Cape York, and has most facilities including fuel supplies, a hotel, supermarket, bakery and resort. Adjacent to the BP servo is a small, but interesting, museum which is a must-visit for the history buff. These folk will also want to visit the plane wrecks near the Bamaga Airstrip, reminders of how close World War II came to Australia.

The best place to camp near Bamaga is the campground at Seisia. A little further away are the alternatives of Loyalty Beach and Punsand Bay. Any fishermen camping at Seisia will want to check out the jetty at Red Island Point. Huge schools of sardines gather beneath the jetty, attracting all the usual predators, and it is rare to see no one fishing there. There are certainly some big fish taken here at times.

Keen fisherfolk are well catered for, with several guided fishing operations in the area, any of whom will be happy to have you sample what the area has to offer.

Muttee Heads

The mouth of the mighty Jardine River can be accessed from the Muttee Heads road, via a very sandy track. This is definitely 4WD only, and towing heavy trailers through the soft sand is fraught with danger. Tyres will need to be deflated and it can be tough going!

The Jardine is Queensland’s largest perennial stream, due to it draining the “wet desert” which caused so many problems for the early explorers. At low tide the water is drinkable near the mouth, even in the dry. It’s a very pleasant camp and even if you have no boat, you can fish, but watch for crocs - the Jardine is full of them! Beachcombers will enjoy strolling the beach north, towards Muttee Heads.

Weipa attracts the fishermen, and there are plenty of guided operations to put you onto fish.

Weipa

Weipa is the largest centre on the Cape and exists because of Comalco’s huge bauxite operation. It has all facilities. While it is off the main track to the tip of the Cape, it is well worth a visit. Fishermen love to visit Weipa because of the wide range of fishing options on offer. A quick survey of the guided fishing operations that utilize Weipa as their base, will quickly convince you that Weipa must have something going for it!

While fishing is the main lure that draws visitors to Weipa, it has more to offer the traveller. There are delightful locations for restful camping, such as the Pennefather River, Mapoon and Stones Crossing on the Wenlock. It also offers a centre for replenishing the larder, getting your vehicle repaired or just taking a break from the rigors of the track. It also boasts a well-serviced airport, if you need something urgently.

East Coast of the Cape

I haven’t mentioned too many spots on the east coast of the Peninsula yet. I guess the prevailing south easterly trade winds tend to make it a bit uncomfortable at times if you’re camping. If you turn east around the Archer River Roadhouse, you will reach the tiny paradise called Portland Roads. Once a strategic Port during World War II, this port serviced the Iron Range aerodrome. The Iron Range rainforest is a fine example of virgin rainforest and is a must-visit area if you are a nature buff. While Portland Roads is a beautiful and quaint little settlement, there are no camping facilities available. The only camping available in the area, is located at Iron Range and also at the beautiful, but very breezy, Chili Beach. This lovely area must be the windiest on the Cape, so be warned. Further north you can visit Captain Billy’s Landing, also windy.

Conclusion

Well, this is a very short account of some of my favourite haunts up on Cape York. I was going to tell you about the track into the Skardon River, however that is now closed, unfortunately. Then there was the time we found a very disused track into the Escape River. The last 14 km took us eight hours over two days! Someone who tried it a year or two ago found it impossible, due to erosion. It would be really easy to write a book on the topic. In fact many books have been written about this fascinating part of Australia, and you will find many in your local library, which you can use for pre-trip research.

When you get back from your trip, you will probably be even more eager to find further information about the area, to prepare you for your next trip. The fact that you are reading this publication means you have fallen under the spell of the Cape. Very quickly, you will develop your own list of favourite places to visit up there. You are not on your own - you have joined a select band of discerning people, Cape York explorers, and I’ll probably see you up on the track - soon!

By Ken Stien

Bat is hooked to a big mackerel while Paul gives him a massage. All guides are mental.

Before I go any further I must congratulate Anthony on the Cape Yorker. It’s a top shelf magazine so do yourself a favour and buy a copy. They’ll be a collectors item in the future and the new edition promises to be even bigger and brighter than the current model.
Naturally I leapt at the chance to fly to, and drive back from the tip of Australia but quickly asked the lad was there any chance to have a fish up there. He grinned and told me he had arranged for “Bat” to take Paul Donald and I out for an afternoon.
Now a fishing guide called “Bat” could be a worry, but I held my tongue and thought “this’ll be different”.
Paul and I flew to Bamaga, and trust me, that airfare one way was more than a return flight to Sydney. Now that there is an alternative airline it’ll be interesting to see what happens.

Portrait of a “Bat” and a Queenfish.

Anthony picked us up at Bamaga around 5 p.m. and we met the other four at Seisia Holiday Village. Now I have never driven to the tip of Australia and I was looking forward to the adventure. There were seven of us with the TJM boys in that classy red Landcruiser that has more accessories than a King Cross prostitute, the Polycraft boys in their Holden Rodeo and we three in the old Sahara.
There were two bush trailers, three plastic boats, and enough recovery gear to outfit the Dacca Rally.
I could not believe how Seisia had changed and how the camping ground had matured. We had a self contained unit and it was excellent. That night we had beer and burgers at the Seisia Fishing Club and the island band was pretty bloody good.
I caught up with an old mate there, Gary Wright — G. Wright is the oldest fishing guide in Australia (both in years and experience) and his knowledge of that area and its history is incredible. Write a book Gary before you check out and it’s all lost.
We shopped for the drive home the next morning then headed out to Punsand Bay where “Bat” lives right on the water. If he were any closer to it he’d have mullet in the lounge and mackerel in the bathroom.
And so without fanfare I met “Bat”. How to describe “Bat” in words that I won’t get sued for, or beaten to death?? One word describes this man——different. While he has dreadlocks, and teeth that would terrify a dentist, he’s university educated.
Tall and wiry as a barracuda he has chosen to follow the beat of a different drum, and who can blame him there??
I’m not sure what “Bat” thought of Paul and I (probably a pair of old farts), but I laughed when Anthony said “Be an easy afternoon with this pair Bat”, and he replied “Get real Gomes. Now I’ve got a fishing writer I’ve been reading since I was a small kid and a bloody charter boat skipper. I’ve never been so uptight in my life”.
Uptight my bum!! If he were any more laid back he’d be comatose.

Bat and his trusty 6 metre Fisher boat that is anchored at Punsand Bay.

And so to sea with “Bat” and his close buddy Gavin Birrell. Bat’s boat is a 6 metre Fisher boat that is unpainted, but like ALL Fisher boats it’s a great platform and a U-beaut rough water hull.
As we were camping at the legendary Somerset that night (and boy is that home of Aussie history) Bat said he’d fish around to there, drop us off on the beach, have dinner with us, then drive the boat back to Punsand in the middle of the night.
That his GPS was on the blink didn’t mean a big rats rectum to him. That’s how well he knows those waters with their racing currents.
And so around the tip of Australia we cruised and started to head down the east coast of our continent. I was excited as hell about going around the very top of our land and drifted into a dream world of the pearlers of long ago who did the same.
Have you any idea of the history of that region and the Torres Straits?? Why this isn’t taught in our schools instead of crap about wars in far off lands is quite beyond me.
It soon become obvious that “Bat” is a true blue expert on these waters and both Paul and I knew we were with a special fishing guide. At our first stop he explained the correlation between wind and current and why the pelagics would (not should, I hasten to add) be where they were.
This spot looked exactly like the set up at Cape Croker in the Northern Territory and I was interested in how and where he would troll. He put over a big wolf herring on one rod and a 5 metre Halco Scorpion on the other, and trolled the very edge of the rough water as the current boiled over isolated rocks.
First pass and a mongrel barracuda chewed up the wolfie, and a rotten 2 metre shark ate the last wolfie. But the next pass yielded a nice Spanish mackerel for Paul that was destined for dinner that night.
There were a lot of mackerel in these fast waters but also a lot of sharks, so we ambled down the coast with “Bat” in full flight on the history and whys and wherefores of the various islands.
A little bitty island was next stop. It was full-on from the word go with mackerel up to 40 lbs and big Queenfish and trevally EVERYWHERE——then the sharks moved in. We lost huge mackerel to these frigging pieces of dog poop, and ended up losing 7 or 8 Scorpions and they aren’t cheap.
Never have I seen so many sharks as this year, and they seem to be every bloody where. The marlin fishermen are losing big fish on a daily basis, you can’t catch a coral trout for them, mackerel are being eaten from one end of Queensland to the other, and some ding a ling thinks the shark population is in danger.
From what??—–EACH OTHER!! Again I ask– where is this research being done, Alice Springs, or perhaps Broken Hill??
“Bat” and Paul were determined for me to have a fish, but I kept saying I was on the camera. Hey as you get older you start to fail physically, but you get a whole lot smarter than a fifth grader. Pull on big sharks??? Bullshit to you pair!
We finally got the poops with the sharks and headed into the setting sun for Somerset. That channel between Albany Island and Somerset is incredible with wild currents and I have just got to fish this area again.
Did I enjoy my afternoon with “Bat”. Is the Pope a catholic?? Both Paul and I had a ball and Paul described “Bat” as “a bloody nice fellow who knows his stuff”, and bear in mind Paul runs Kerry D. Charters at Karumba.

Paul Donald of Kerry D. Charters at Karumba with a Spaniard that was dinner that night.

Would I fish with “Bat” again?? Put it this way Jennifer and I are going up there next year and if “Bat” has room we’ll certainly fish with him for a couple of days. There’re a couple of areas out from there that will go off like a bomb on the right tides by the way.
Would I recommend him to tourists and so called experts?? Absolutely!!! Forget that he looks like a refugee from a hippy commune this guy is great company, has a top sense of humour, and knows his stuff. When he says “I’ll stop up here and see what mischief we can get into” — GET READY because his mischief has scales and pulls like hell.
In a writing career of over 40 years I have only given three testimonials to fishing guides, and one of those was for “Bat”. I do not do this lightly and if he does do the wrong thing by clients he may wake up with a dugong’s head in his bed. Seriously you’ll have a ball with “Bat”. Check him out on www.ifishalot.com
I was going to give his God given name folks but just realised I forgot to ask him what it was. Guess you’ll always be “Bat” old mate.

By John Mondora

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This year’s model retains the renowned features that set its predecessors apart from the competition. Like Yamaha’s push-button On-Command® drive system, which ensures solid driveability over varied terrain by allowing riders to rapidly switch between 2WD, 4WD or 4WD with differential lock. And, fully independent double-wishbone suspension at front and rear that maximises wheel contact over ruts and bumps to allow more traction and a smoother ride.

Like its big brother Grizzly 700, the Grizzly 450 incorporates the Ultramatic® transmission system. Yamaha’s Ultramatic® transmission uses both a centrifugal and a sprag (one-way) clutch. This configuration minimises belt slippage by keeping the belt tight at all times, which increases the life of the drive belt. It also provides superior engine braking, allowing riders to tackle steep downhill gradients with confidence.

Yamaha’s engineers have made several enhancements to the chassis that give the Grizzly 450 a sportier feel without compromising durability. The new one-piece frame increases rigidity and strength while reducing weight by 2.7kg. The stabiliser bar has been shortened and its stiffness has been increased with 20% to match the new frame dynamics. The rear gear assembly has been completely redesigned, switching from a two-point mounting system to a three-point system. This to add extra structural strength to the rear chassis as well as improving force deployment while accelerating, riding over rough terrain or braking.

The Grizzly 450’s SOHC, 2-valve engine is known for its workhorse reliability, providing plenty of low-end torque for tough jobs around the farm or steep climbs on the trail. The engine benefits from a new high-output AC generator assembly with new rotor, stator and regulator, resulting in 39% more output at 3000 rpm.

With a maximum output of over 320W, a full battery load is guaranteed and plenty of power is available for operating winches or other electrical equipment. Combined with today’s battery technology it eliminates the requirement of a pull start device, effecting in a weight reduction and offering more space on the footboard.

The multi-disc sealed rear wet braking system has been completely redesigned. In its new configuration it moved from its lateral position and is now connected to the pinion gear, resulting in a firmer brake feel with better feedback. The new configuration supports an in-line brake adjuster for easier maintenance. Coupled with dual hydraulic discs up front, the rear wet brake provides consistent stopping power in all kind of conditions.

The 2011 Grizzly 450FAP Auto 4×4 brings a number of refinements that make handling more nimble and long journeys more comfortable. The steering column receives a new column bearing with a larger surface area to provide smoother handlebar movement. Constructed from newly developed TPU (Thermoplastic Poly-Urethane), the bearing is a two piece design with integrated seals that retain grease better and make servicing easier.

The new Maxxis tyres - the MU13 (AT25×8-12) at the front and the MU14 (AT25×8-12) at the rear - take 2 kg from the Grizzly 450’s unsprung weight. The modified tread pattern improves overall handling.

The seat has a new ergonomic shape with a special PVC cover that is more puncture resistant and flexible in low temperature environments. And, like its bigger siblings the Grizzly 550 and Grizzly 700, sections of the Grizzly 450’s rear fender have a textured finish that offers extra scratch protection from the unavoidable rider’s boots.

Grizzly 450 EPS: A world first
Introduced to the ATV market by Yamaha in 2006, Yamaha’s EPS system has now been brought to the mid-sized ATV segment for the first time in response to feedback from Yamaha customers. This speed-sensitive system greatly reduces the physical effort demanded of riders, lowering fatigue levels on long working days or expeditions.

In addition to easing the steering effort, the EPS system dampens any steering kickback. The Grizzly 450 EPS uses the same system as the Grizzly 700 EPS, but with a new mapping to suit the unique riding characteristics of the Grizzly 450. The new AC generator assembly delivers sufficient output to power the EPS system under any conditions.

The Laura Races and Rodeo is an annual event show casing Cape York’s courage, hospitality and skill. Organised by Karlene Sheppard, a local landowner, the Laura races and rodeo have become part of Cape York folklore with numbers of spectators and competitors growing each year. While the action really doesn’t get underway until Saturday, by lunchtime Friday, the camp grounds are chock-a-block with land cruisers and horse floats. For the past two years, ‘our camp spot’ near the large mango tree, has been well and truly inhabited by the time we’ve arrived. This year we are aiming to arrive on Thursday - just hope the boss doesn’t find out!

Friday is devoted to horse sports with competitors from all over North Qld challenging. The usual drafting events are on the card - testing the skill and acumen of local ringers and stockmen and women. While some of these competitors might seem a bit long in the tooth, believe you me they are desperate to avoid being left in the long yard by the youngens. Look out for Ron Simpson, a veteran of numerous Laura events. He might be a sprightly 50 something, but on the back of ‘Me Gift” he is as agile as ever. Ron’s nephews, Michael and Rowan are keeping the campdrafting tradition alive as are the Quaids, Elms, Sheppards and Quartermains.

Saturday morning sees the start of the real action - the bull riding, steer wrestling, barrel racing and bronc riding. Stock for the two day event is trucked in - some of the best bulls from Glen Simmonds, Biboohra and broncs from Teece’s Rodeo & Rough Stock. The arena is large enough to showcase the action, but small enough to afford everyone a bird’s eye view. (Don’t forget your hat and sunscreen though -the sun beats down even though it’s the middle of winter).

For the past few years a young bloke called Ted, (yep, short name, short bloke) has been the all round cowboy. Ted’s dad Ron still competes in the horse sports and his younger brother Bill (another short name, short bloke) gives Ted a run for his money on the bulls. If you don’t get how much of a family affair this is, Ted’s daughter Georgia had her first calf ride at Laura last year. No doubt we will see more of her in action later this year. That’s the great thing about Laura, as kids from all over get a chance to have a go in a safe and supervised situation. It’s rather reassuring to see kids leave the iPods and mobile phones behind and get involved.

About 1pm Saturday, the campdraft is over everyone heads up the hill to the race track. This five race meet boasts some of the fastest horses and jockeys that North Qld has to offer, and like all race meets features fashions on the field. It never ceases to amaze me how many women make the effort to dress up in their finery - stilettos and hats being the order of the day, and how every year, there’s some young wag in drag to keep everyone amused.

Once the fashion stakes are sorted, the racing and betting begin in earnest. Local bookies take bets on the races -the locals usually bet on the jockeys rather than the horses and then take their winnings down to the bar at the night time cabaret.

The cabaret is an open air affair complete with a live band. Watching folk from Cape York let their hair down after a day on horses and bulls is the most eclectic display of dancing, music and dress one could ever imagine. Needless to say, if you don’t enjoy yourself it’s your own fault. A word of advice though - the cabaret area is built above the race track - there’s a three metre drop to the ground if you happen to decide to take a short cut out the back.

The action resumes early Sunday morning. Many of us are awakened by a booming voice reminding cowboys and cowgirls of the days program. Thankfully the local ladies provide a hearty breakfast and decent coffee if one is too tired to cook.
Sunday’s program is fast and furious. There are usually two rounds of bull riding before the final. Some of north Queensland’s best riders battle this out. Riders to keep an eye on include Ted and Bill Simpson, Vincent (Porkie) Harrigan, Barry Bowen, Frankie Ward and Grant Ouantock. As courageous as the Cape York cowboys may be, they rely heavily on the skill and daring of the rodeo clowns. For many years, Des Burns and Mook Trimble have been keeping the riders, and the spectators, safe.

But it’s not just about the boys. The ladies barrel race is a hotly contested affair with some fine horses and riders including Kylie Corkhill, Karlene Sheppard and Erica Elms battling it out around the barrels.

The Laura races and rodeo week-end is a time when people from the Cape catch up. It’s a time when these people proudly display their heritage and hospitality. The week-end reminds us about life on the land, Slim Dusty and looking out for your mates.

If you have ever wondered about the bush spirit, the closing ceremony at last year’s event will leave you in no doubt that this spirit is alive and well. After the trophies were distributed and congratulations over, a quick pass the hat around was organized to support one of the local families who were doing it tough. I’m not sure how much money was collected, but it was given with love and there were few dry eyes.

If you are heading up the Cape this winter, do yourself a favour and plan a stop over in Laura. The dates for this year’s event will run from the 21st to the 25th of June.

Profile of a Bull Rider
Name: Ted Simpson
Age: 27
First calf ride: Mt Garnet Rodeo age 8, 1st place
First open bull ride: Chillagoe Rodeo age 15, 2nd place after falling off “Huey”
Career Highlights:
1997:ABCRA Junior Bull Riding Champion (North Qld Zone)
1997: traveled to Tamworth for ABCRA National Junior Rodeo Finals, coming 3rd overall and winning the average (means he won that particular rodeo even though he didn’t win the competition.),
2003: traveled to Sydney Royal Easter Show to compete for Australia and Qld 2003, winning the Champion of Champions Bull Riding competition
During this competition he stepped in for an injured team mate, riding his bare back horse (3rd time ever) to come 3rd against Australia’s best bare back riders,
2002: Winner of the Cape York Series
Regular chosen for the State of Origin Series held at the Annual Mareeba Rodeo
2007: Laura All Round Cowboy

Saltwater Crocodiles all found throughout Cape York. This pair were photographed at Lakefield National Park.

Under normal circumstances, with common sense prevailing, none of the animals of Cape York should present a threat to human life. Signs clearly state where caution needs to be exercised. However, it helps to be familiar with the animals that are potentially dangerous.
Mosquitoes are potentially the most dangerous animals on Cape York as they are known to carry a range of infectious diseases, some life threatening. There are in fact some 119 recorded species of mosquito on the Cape. Please cover up exposed skin or use a high quality repellant. Bushman and RID (tropical strength) are two such repellants. Other more popular brands are reported to be less effective and should be avoided if possible, however even the less effective brands are better than nothing.

This pair of snakes were found on the Batavia Road. We spent ten minutes watching them before they moved off the road to let us past.

There are a number of poisonous Snakes which can deliver a potentially dangerous bite, although snakebite is rare and in most cases, snakes will avoid humans. Most people never see snakes in the wild, as they will detect us first and take evasive action. Snakes that are regarded as dangerous on Cape York are the King Brown or Mulga Snake, Western Brown, Taipan and Northern Death Adder. Sea snakes will also be encountered in the coastal environments.
Estuarine Crocodiles inhabit tidal and most freshwater reaches of Cape York. Although normally not a threat to humans, they are quite capable of attacking and, in extreme circumstances, eating humans. They can be observed with safety, but caution and common sense are needed.
Freshwater Crocodiles are inoffensive to humans and prefer to be left alone. They do become accustomed to people in popular areas and may bite if provoked or tormented. It is not expected that you will see many freshwater crocodiles during your trip, however it is strongly recommended that you treat any crocodile sighting as that of an estuarine (salty) crocodile and use caution.

This scorpion was found when we were collecting firewood at Seisia.

Box Jellyfish inhabit all coastal waters of Cape York particularly during October through to May. These semi-transparent creatures have long, trailing tentacles armed with lethal stinging cells. It is not advisable to enter the sea particularly during this period.

Both the introduced Asian Water Buffalo and the Feral Pig have been known to attack people on provocation. Under normal circumstances, however, these animals will keep to themselves and should not be disturbed or approached. Buffalo are now a rare sight on Cape York, but Feral Pigs can still be seen in large numbers in the vicinity of floodplains and billabongs.
A variety of Spiders, Scorpions and Centipedes may also be encountered. Although none of these are considered more than a nuisance, individuals can react to bites in different ways. By taking the usual precautions when camping, these critters should present little concern.

There are a variety of spiders found in the Cape. Take care when walking tracks and also check your sleeping gear and tents as they may call these home.

Above information sourced from:-
Queensland Government Environmental Protection Agency / Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service.
Finally, avoid repeated, regular visits to the same spot at the waters edge

Below is a series of shots following one vehicle down Gunshot.

Are you keen to do Gunshot? I will leave the final decision up to you!

Okay, no big deal so far.

Getting a little more interesting.

Keep in mind this is a near vertical drop.

We have contact!

May be time to turn on those windscreen wipers....

The aftermath.

Look at that wall of water that has been pushed forward. Once you have made it down Gunshot, there is no way to drive out. Better go grab that Recovery Snatch Strap. You have one of those don't you?

This is the 'Bean Hole' and yes, it is quite deep.

They say that a picture says a thousand words. I bet I know what she is about to say.

Not content with just the water to drive through, this fella decides to do it while it is raining.

Now, this fella is being very cautious and has taped the doors and also has a tarp on the front. I am not too sure about the child riding on the trailer though!

Now that's a unique way to advertise your business.

I'm sure there are better ways to wash down your fishing reels at the end of the day than this.

Entering Nolan's Brook heading north on the OTL.

Yet another vehicle claimed by Nolan's Brook.

The adrenaline has kicked in. Nolan's Brook.

Well, that’s it for now. Lets hope this hasn’t scared you away too much. Oh, don’t forget to have a snorkel fitted if you do plan on doing anything like this!